Biscuit Cassoulet

I've got to hand it to Isa and Terry. They sure know what they're doing. Go check out their book (well, one of them) right now.

One of these days I'll really start making my own recipes. Sure, I do that now, but only about once a month and I never blog about them. Maybe they're so delicious I just don't want people to know.

For now, though, I'll stick with this cassoulet. It's the second time I've made it - which is saying something, since I rarely make the same thing twice (unless it's my special lasagna, or cookies or something). It reminds me a lot of the pot-roasty, beef-stewy type home-cookin' that I used to love so much. Only, you know, without that pesky meat.

Just about everything in this dish you can find at the farmer's market in midwinter. The leeks, potatoes, carrots, and garlic are all from vendors at the University District Farmer's Market in Seattle. The flour for the biscuits was obtained from a vendor at the market until I dumped it on the floor and had to borrow my mom's AP flour (these things happen. I've learned to frown really hard for two minutes and then forget about them). The vegetable broth is homemade from veggie scraps I save during my cooking (I'll blog about that sometime).

I missed the onions by a month or two, so I had to get them from the store (poo), and the beans I could have gotten from one of the many dried bean vendors at the market but I forgot about it, and thus the bulk aisle once again comes to my aid. Frozen peas could have easily been obtained fresh in summer and then frozen at home, but I'm silly and don't think to do things like that most of the time. Buttermilk too, they sell at the market, but I'm never there early enough (it sells out fast) so it also came from the store. But the point is that I could have gotten it straight from the farmer. I think the only things you can't find at the market here are salt, pepper, cornstarch, leavening agents, and sustainable palm oil (non-hydrogenated shortening).

That said, if you're not trying to eat locally, all these things can also be found in the grocery store. It's just not nearly as fun to get them.

Oh, and this recipe can be vegan - but I used buttermilk for the biscuits instead of soy milk/vinegar because I had buttermilk in my refrigerator. But I didn't have any soy milk. So there you have it.


BISCUIT CASSOULET
adapted slightly from the "Leek and Bean Cassoulet with Biscuits" from Veganomicon by Isa Moscowitz and Terry Romero

CASSOULET
1 lb (3 smallish) purple potatoes, cut into cubes - about 3 cups (any small waxy potatoes will do, but these are so colorful)
2 tbsp cooking oil, olive or otherwise
1 lb carrots, peeled cut into pieces smaller than the potato cubes
1-2 cups chopped onion (I used yellow, but red would have been spectacular)
2 cups thinly sliced leeks (make sure you wash them really well, mud gets into places on a leek you've never even heard of)
3 cups vegetable stock
3 tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder
2-3 cloves garlic, pressed
1-2 tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 tsp salt (or as needed)
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup frozen peas
1 cup cooked navy beans, rinsed

BISCUITS
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup shortening (go natural, not carcinogenic)
1 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt

1. Put potatoes in a small pot of boiling salt water. Cook for 10-15 minutes until just done. Don't make them too soft, because they'll cook more later and you don't want them to fall apart. Or maybe you do, what do I know? Drain them once they're cooked and set them aside. They can sit at room temperature for awhile.

2. Heat a large (12 inch), ovenproof saute pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat (no higher, because your leeks will get mushy and your onions will burn). By ovenproof, I mean no nonstick coating, no plastic handle, no rubber anywhere, just all-metal. Add the oil, carrots, onion, and leeks.



Let these saute for awhile until the onions turn translucent and there's a little browning action. This should take about 10 minutes.

3. While that's cooking up, whisk the cornstarch into your vegetable stock. It's important that the vegetable stock is cool or cold when you do this, because cornstarch will clump up and be awful if you whisk it into something hot. You'd have little weird unidentifiable lumps in your stew, and nobody would ever eat at your house again. On another note, I used half cornstarch, half tapioca starch because I ran out of cornstarch. I don't recommend this. It won't thicken properly.

4. When the carrot mixture has achieved proper sauteedness, add the garlic, thyme, salt and pepper to the pan and stir it up to coat the rest of the vegetables. Only let that cook about a minute - you should smell the garlic but it shouldn't be anywhere near brown.



5. Heat the oven to 425°F. Add the cooked potatoes and the peas and dump in the stock (give the stock a quick whisk right before you dump it in). Mix it all up to be uniform.



Turn the heat up to medium high and bring to a simmer. Turn it back down and simmer for 7 minutes. Turn it off afterward and carefully stir in the beans.

6. In the meantime, whip up some biscuits. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or fork, cut in the shortening (toss it around and mash it a bit) until it is full of little lumps. You don't want it creamy-smooth, and you don't want large fatty bits either. Slowly pour in the buttermilk while you continue to mix it up with a fork or pastry cutter until everything is moistened and it's a little lumpy. Knead it up a few times with your hands to give it a little workout, and then you're ready to roll.

7. Ball up bits of dough (I made eight biscuits, but you could do 10 or 12) and drop them in the skillet over the cassoulet, spaced evenly apart.



8. Put the whole thing in the oven and keep it there for 15 minutes. The biscuits should be getting nice and golden. Take it out very carefully using doubled up potholders on the handle (don't forget that the handle will be hot). You might need two hands to do this without disaster, especially if you're using cast iron. Serve this puppy right away - make sure there's a biscuit in every bowl. Tada! Dinner.

PROS: easy to get ingredients, tasty, comforting, colorful, hot and full of goodness
CONS: well... it's not low-glycemic. full of lovely calories!

Caribbean Crab Soufflé

There are a few times each year that I like to prepare lengthy, course-filled meals with expensive ingredients. New Years Eve is one such occasion. I was blessed this holiday to enjoy Dungeness crab, succulent mushrooms, ratta"stew"ie (more on that later), and green salad. Food during these long course-by-course meals is slow, and more filling.

Dungeness crab (or any crab, for that matter) is not cheap. But at least, here in the Pacific Northwest, it's local and in season right now - and it makes the SeafoodWATCH's "Best choices" list. But how to make a meal to feature crab? Everyone makes crab cakes... something different would be nice. My grandma made KILLER crab salad with celeriac for Christmas. I can't find any recipe resembling it anywhere, so what to do? I need a crab dish to sweep in the new year.

It just so happens that I'm the lucky recipient of five (count 'em - 5!) different new cookbooks from Christmas. Flipping through them (well, flipping through two, as three were vegetarian), the recipe that caught my eye (haha, caught... you know, like in a crab trap) was crab soufflé. Caribbean crab soufflé.

And I love anything with excessive amounts of beaten egg white!

Not to mention this yearning in the back of my mind to return to the warm, sandy, quiet beaches of the coastal Caribbean city of Cahuita, Costa Rica. (It's not really a city... more like a small town. But "town" starts with a t, not a c.) Although, I don't know how much soufflé anyone actually makes there. I guess it's the seasoning that counts.

It was surprisingly simple to make, once all the crab was out of the shell, and as soufflés go, it was pretty sturdy. Serve it on an ocean blue plate and it makes you want to dive in the gentle, salty swell of the sea. And cast your crab traps.


CARIBBEAN CRAB SOUFFLÉ
from The New Basics Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins, tweaked slightly and scaled down by 1/2

1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
2 tbsp unsalted butter
3 tbsp minced celery leaves
1 clove of garlic, pressed
1/4 tsp curry powder
1/4 tsp dried thyme leaves
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
1/4 tsp salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 tbsp flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tbsp milk
2 egg yolks
4 oz fresh crabmeat, cartilage removed
3 egg whites
1/8 tsp fresh lemon juice

1. Prepare your mise en place. If you buy a whole crab (cheaper and fresher), you will not know how much it weighs, so be prepared to a) give it your best guess, or b) have a scale on hand. Pick it carefully out of the shell, from the legs and the body cavity. It's so good. Make sure to get all the shell bits out. You may also want to mix up the spices (curry powder, thyme, red pepper flakes, salt, pepper) ahead of time so you can just chuck them all in at once.

2. Prepare a 4-cup soufflé dish (those round white ceramic things with the ripply sides) by generously buttering the inside. Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

3. Toast your coconut! Lucky us, we had some shredded coconut leftover from making rundown in August (fresh shredded coconut freezes beautifully). You can toast it in an 8-inch pan for a few minutes, until it's lightly browned and all dried out. Ours took a little while, since it was never dried. Put it aside when it's done.

4. Heat up another small pan over low heat and melt the butter in it. Cook the celery leaves with the garlic and spices. Stirring a bit, cook for a few minutes. The garlic shouldn't brown, but it should smell really awesome.



5. Add the flour and stir it to coat the contents of the pan. Cook no more than a minute before adding milk and increasing the heat to medium.



Stir constantly! If you don't, it might scorch on the bottom, resulting in blackened, bad-tasting food. When the milk begins to simmer, take it off the heat. It should be thick and smooth. If not, keep stirring on the heat until it is. (Of note: if you are using rice milk, it will never get thick or smooth. just don't do it. soy should probably work, though.)



6. When it cools a little, whisk in each egg yolk, one at a time. If you do it when the mixture is too hot, the yolks will cook instantly and get all clumpy. That texture is undesirable for many a reason, not least of which is that it's gross (but mainly because the yolks will no longer provide the thickening richness that they would if they were properly mixed in). Mix in the crab and coconut at this point.

7. In a nice metal bowl (for reasons that a food chemist would understand), beat the egg whites with the lemon juice to soft peaks. The "soft peak" stage of egg whites is achieved when you lift the beater or whisk out of the bowl of beaten whites, to leave a floppy point, like a santa hat. Finish it off carefully by hand to stiff peaks - but don't let it get dry. When in doubt, underwhip a little. The "stiff peak" stage looks more like a witch's hat, and goes very quickly to dry oblivion, which is pretty useless and unrecoverable.



8. Put about a quarter of the beaten egg whites into the crab mixture and gently fold with a rubber spatula to "lighten" the custardy crab. Put the lightened crab mix in with the rest of the egg whites, and very gently fold with a rubber spatula in a forward circular motion. Cut down the center of the whites with the spatula and pull it back up toward you again on the bottom of the bowl, folding over the top again and cutting down the middle. Rotate the bowl as you do this until it's mostly incorporated but a wee bit streaky. The more you fold, the more you deflate the air bubbles in the egg whites, so don't get OCD about mixing it completely.



9. Scoop all this into your buttered soufflé dish and stick it straight into the hot oven.



Bake for roughly 25 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and it's all puffy. Serve it right away, before it deflates! It should still be moist inside, but cooked.

PROS: great flavor, hard to mess up, nice and spicy
CONS: would like more crab flavor


I'd make this again, surely. I'd like to try it with some kind of fish, too.

Black Bean Brownie Cake

Beans. Oh, the versatility.

If my two-month educational foray into the jungles of Costa Rica taught me nothing else, at least I walked away with this recipe. Thank you, Robin. Thank you, Rancho Mastatal. I already miss birthdays, all of us gathered around the community table... enjoying a hunk o' chocolate goodness.

It's chocolate cake, but it's... healthy. It's mostly eggs and beans, with a little coffee and some other stuff (like chocolate). You know, breakfast food. *shifty eyes*


BLACK BEAN BROWNIE CAKE
courtesy of Rancho Mastatal

1 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
6 oz bittersweet chocolate (75% cocoa content is good)
4 oz (1 stick) butter
1 tbsp finely ground coffee
1 tsp salt
1/8 tsp powdered chili
2 cups cooked black beans, drained and rinsed
4 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1/2-1 cup cacao nibs

1. Preheat the oven to 350 and grease a 9x13" cake pan. Then make a sugar syrup. I do this because in Costa Rica, the sugar we had was liquid (it was called "tapa dulce"). Basically, it was unrefined sugar that had not been evaporated. To simulate that... just mix the brown sugar, regular sugar, and water and simmer over medium-low heat for a couple of minutes. That should do it.

2. Chop up the chocolate and butter, and melt in the top of a double boiler. Add coffee, salt, and chili, mixing until smooth and melty. You can also use oil with fine results. I like butter because... it's so wholesome.



3. Make sure your beans are well-rinsed and drained, particularly if they come from a can. *gasp* I know you wouldn't do that, though. Black beans are great, but I've also used red beans with equally great results. You could probably use almost any kind of bean, really... Stick them in the food processor with the eggs and vanilla, and whir away. Within a minute or two, it should get nice and frothy and the beans should be totally obliterated. You might see skin specs. But that's it. Transfer to a large bowl.



4. Combine melted chocolate/butter with the sugar syrup, and pour a little into the bean mixture. Fold to incorporate and temper the eggs, if the chocolate and sugar is still hot. Gradually add the rest, folding the batter until mostly combined (a few light and dark streaks are fine.



5. Fold in the cacao nibs until evenly distributed. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake for 55 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean and it begins to recede from the sides of the pan. Cool in pan to room temperature. Enjoy as brownies with powdered sugar, or crumbled over ice cream, or however you want.





PROS: rich, moist, chocolatey, full of protein, flourless
CONS: a bit strong for some people, incredibly crumbly

And there you have it... my first update in a month. Hopefully I'll do the next one sooner rather than later.

Dutch Potato Soup

I'm back! I'm here, home, and I survived Costa Rica.

Boy, do I have some interesting food to post about. I never knew rice and beans could be served so many times in a single day. Week, even. I think I consumed an average of 15 meals featuring rice and beans per week. Maybe more. And fried plantains? Oh boy. We United Statesians don't know what we're missing.

But I'm not here to talk about rice and beans. Not today. I just want to present to you, my delicious (albeit a little plain looking) soup. And tell you that I'm becoming more of a locavore! If there's one thing I learned abroad, it's that food doesn't have to come to you from 1000 miles away. So I've been haunting the farmer's markets, running around Puget Consumer's Co-Op with my little pad of recycled paper and a pen, jotting down prices and names of local producers.

So when my dad and his wife presented me with the Cafe Flora Cookbook, I was delighted - a cookbook from one of Seattle's own vegetarian restaurants. YAY! Seattle food. Local food.

I know, I know. Bear with me. I go on these kicks sometimes. You know, gluten-free, vegetarian, organic... local...

So I found an awesome-looking potato soup recipe in this book that used relatively few ingredients, was pretty cheap to make, and I substituted some things for what I could find that was available this time of year, and used what I already had on hand. It turned out quite yummy. Especially since I (sorta) made my own vegetable stock. Except it was a little too salty. But that's not the point.


DUTCH POTATO SOUP
from Cafe Flora Cookbook, at least mostly, and tailored to what I had available

2 tbsp olive oil
1 bunch (about 3 small) fresh bulb onions with the green part still there, thinly sliced
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 head fresh garlic, minced with greens removed
1 1/4 lb russet potatoes, sliced but not peeled
4 cups vegetable stock
1 tsp caraway seeds, toasted and ground
3/4 cup lager
1 cup heavy cream
6 oz smoked gouda, grated
salt
black pepper

1. Heat up your oil in the bottom of a stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions and salt. I used both the green and white parts from the little onions I had, and it worked out fine. It hurt my eyes less, too. The recipe calls for a medium yellow onion, but... I like my way. Saute this for about 10 minutes, until the onions turn translucent, and stir it frequently to keep them from browning. Or, if you're me, forget to stir them and have half of them browned and the other half crunchy and undercooked. It's really a matter of taste.

2. Add the garlic, all chopped up. It should smell really good right now. The garlic I found was fresh - not the kind with the dry papery outside. It was all usable, the skin and everything, it was firm and evenly hydrated. I couldn't have separated the cloves if I'd wanted to. Cook this for another minute.



3. Dump in the sliced potatoes and stock. You'll be lucky if your stock is as good as mine. Mine was pretty awesome. I made it with kale and carrots and the tops and hearts of celery and carrots and onion and garlic skins and fresh thyme and dried oregano and salt and pepper and a little paprika and tomato paste. But that's beside the point. You can just use one of those aseptic packages of Pacific vegetable broth. It's delicious. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, then cover and cook for 10 minutes, until the potatoes are soft. You should be feeling pretty good about yourself. At least I was.



4. Meanwhile, ready your food processor/blender and a separate container for the soup. When the potatoes have cooked, remove from the heat and let cool off for about 10 minutes with the lid off. When it is less hot, puree it in batches in your appliance of choice. Just don't fill it more than halfway, or it will start to leak. That's not really what we want. While it's blending, grate yourself some cheese.



5. Return the pureed soup to the heat, add the caraway seeds and beer, and bring back to a boil. Slowly stir in your heavy cream. And oh gee. I had some good heavy cream. Courtesy of Golden Glen Creamery... it was so rich and white and non-homogenized, and came in this adorable little glass bottle. It made me grin. Stir your concoction constantly until it comes to a simmer again.



6. Add cheese, a little at a time as you stir, until it melts completely. Season to taste. ¡Buen Provecho!





PROS: flavorful, rich, filling and warm
CONS: a tad bit fattening, plain-looking

So there we have it. Maybe my next post will have something to do with gallo pinto. Or a restaurant review. You'll just have to wait it out.

Equinox Eggs

Another vernal equinox has come and gone, and the days are now longer than the nights. Here in the north, anyway. Mum and I dyed eggs... and this year, we did some experimenting with natural colors. Last year we used those little bottles of natural dye like "black currant juice contentrate" and "blueberry concentrate" and such. It merely stained our hands and kept our brown eggs brown, so... this year we did something different.

We got some tips out of The Joy of Cooking. We started with a pot of 3 cups red onion skins in a 3 cup mixture of canned red beet juice and water with 2 tbsp vinegar, brought to a boil and turned down to simmer for half an hour. We hoped this would make red.



We did the same with red cabbage in 3 cups of water plus 2 tbsp vinegar, to make blue:



...and spinach, etc. to make green:



...and we hard-boiled a dozen eggs according to the Cook's Illustrated method of covering them with an inch of water, bringing them to a boil, removing from the heat and covering the pan and letting them sit for 10 minutes, then putting them right into ice water to chill. It doesn't overboil them, which is nice.

The cabbage made a lovely deep purply blue color...



...and the onion skins/beet juice made a brick red liquid...



...and the spinach...



...made pond-water yellow. We strained the liquid into large mugs to dye the eggs in. We got about two cups of liquid for each... fits about two eggs comfortably. So we dropped in the eggs and let them sit in there for about 45 minutes... or something like that, anyway, and they came out looking gawgeous. We tied rubber bands around some of them to make pretty stripes. We'll definitely do this again in the future. Maybe not the spinach, though, since the eggs only got their natural spots accentuated. The blue eggs came out really cool, though. I love dying brown eggs.

Chocolate Raspberry Creme Cake

Just this last week, I completed a quarter-long internship at the zoo (go Nocturnal House!), where I already volunteer. Not only did the internship end, but I'll be leaving the country shortly and won't be volunteering for the next three months either (possibly longer if I am taken on as a zoo employee upon my return). So in thanks, I made a cake. That way, maybe they'll forget that I didn't accomplish that much in three months. "Oh yeah, she was a great intern! She brought us cake and everything!"

It's good cake, too. It's probably one of my new favorites. It has everything - rich chocolate ganache, sweet and smooth pastry cream, a burst of raspberry, on a spongey vessel of light chocolate cake. (Oh, but it's full of gluten. :-( Probably would be pretty simple to convert, though...) Next time I'll make sure to grab more than one piece.


CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY CREME CAKE
bits and pieces from Baking Illustrated by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine, adapted here and there

Pastry Cream Filling
5 tbsp plus 1 tsp sugar
pinch salt
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
2 large egg yolks
2 tbsp cornstarch
2 tbsp butter
1 tsp vanilla

Chocolate Sponge Cake
6 tbsp plain cake flour (I used some combination of all-purpose and potato starch, not being one to keep over-processed, chemically bleached powdered grains in my cupboard)
3 tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tbsp Dutch cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp milk
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp vanilla
5 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar

Chocolate Ganache
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup light agave nectar (corn syrup works, but I don't have this)
8 oz semisweet chocolate, all chopped up
1/2 tsp vanilla

Raspberry Filling and Garnish
1 1/4 cups raspberry preserves or jam (get some with not much sugar added, but never artificially sweetened - you want it to taste like raspberries, not Splenda)
12-16 fresh or frozen raspberries

1. Make the pastry cream: dissolve 1/4 cup of the sugar, and the salt, in the half-and-half over medium heat until simmering, stirring occasionally.

2. While your mixture is heating on the stove, whisk up the egg yolks in a separate bowl. Add the sugar and vigorously beat with your whisk until it gets creamy smooth. Add cornstarch, and keep whisking until the yolks look thick and pale.

3. Slowly drizzle the half-and-half, after it comes to a simmer, into the yolks. Make sure to whisk constantly during this process to avoid cooking and curdling the yolks. This is called tempering. Pour it all back in the saucepan and return to the heat.

4. Whisk the mixture constantly until it starts to bubble a little and it gets really thick, which shouldn't take long. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla.

5. Pour the hot pastry cream through a sieve into a medium bowl. Cover the surface directly with waxed paper to prevent a skin from forming and stick in the fridge until thoroughly chilled. This will take at least 3 hours, but it keeps fine overnight.

6. Make your cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare 2 9-inch round cake pans by greasing the sides and covering the bottom with parchment paper.

7. Sift flours, cocoa, baking powder, and salt together into a medium bowl, mix well, and make sure there are no little lumps of cocoa sitting about in the flour. Squash them if there are. Set aside.

8. Heat milk and butter over low heat until the butter melts. Remove from heat, add the vanilla, and cover to keep warm.

9. Separate three of the eggs. Place the whites in a large metal bowl, and the yolks plus the whole eggs in another large bowl. Beat the whites until foamy and broken up, and gradually add half the sugar as you continue to beat the whites. Beat to soft peaks - you know you've reached this state when you take the beaters out of the egg whites and the peaks look moist and droop over. If you beat it too much, you will have trouble folding your batter and your cake will deflate. You will be sorry.

10. Beat your yolks and whole eggs with the rest of the sugar for about 5 minutes. They should be very thick and pale, kinda like the yolks in the pastry cream. Only thicker, and paler. Pour these in with the whites.

11. Sprinkle the flour over the egg mixtures and fold from the middle down and up about a dozen times around the bowl. Make an indentation and add the milk and butter. Keep folding, very gently and carefully, until everything is more or less evenly mixed. The goal is to get the most homogenous mixture with the least amount of mixing - the more you fold, the more air bubbles you pop and the flatter and denser your cake will be. But you don't want big pockets of egg white or flour in there, either. So just be careful.



12. Pour equal amounts of batter into each cake pan and bake for about 16-22 minutes, depending on the color of your pans (longer for light pans, and less for dark). Judge doneness based on the toothpick test (stick a toothpick in the middle, if it has no crumbs on it, it's done) or by poking the middle of the cake, which should readily spring back. It should also look like it's just starting to pull away from the sides of the pan.

13. When you remove the cakes from the oven, run a knife around the perimeter of the pan. Invert onto a plate, remove the parchment, and re-invert onto a cooling rack. Do the same with the other cake, and cool to room temperature. Don't ever try to frost or fill a warm cake.



14. Make the ganache: Heat the cream and agave over medium heat in a saucepan until simmering. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Cover and let sit for about 8 minutes, at which point the chocolate should have melted (if not, stir it over medium heat until it does).

15. Add vanilla and stir until smooth. Cool until slightly warmer than room temperature.

16. Make that cake: While the glaze is cooling, put one layer of the cake on a cardboard round or other decorating surface. To avoid making a mess, you can tuck strips of waxed paper underneath the cake around all sides for easy cleanup. Spread about 1 cup of the jam evenly over this layer, filling in the pits and potholes on the cake surface. No one will ever know...



17. Place dollops of the pastry cream around the cake layer over the jam and spread it until it makes an even, thick coating. You should use all of it. Carefully put the second cake layer in place, making sure it's centered and not lopsided.

18. Spread around the remaining jam on the top of the cake, all the way up to the edges. Run a spatula around the sides of the cake to clean up any leaking pastry cream or raspberry preserves. Consume this.



19. Pour on the glaze, making sure it completely covers the top and sides. It will cool much more rapidly once it's on the cake. Make pretty swirly designs with the back of a spoon. Before it cools completely, press in raspberries in some attractive pattern on top of the cake.



20. Refrigerate the cake until the glaze sets and it's ready to serve. Keep refrigerated, as the pastry cream will spoil otherwise and the cake will fall apart in warm conditions. Eat, eat! It's so good.








PROS: great balance of flavors, textures, nice and attractive
CONS: time consuming, batter can be tempermental to fold together evenly

Finally!

An update! Apologies for not updating sooner. I haven't stopped eating, though. In lieu of a recipe, I'll just offer pictures of some of the things I've been enjoying in the past month.

First, though, some updates on what I've been up to:
> moved
> back on wheat, as of this month. I can't tell you how nice it is to eat a donut. or flatbread. O wow. Gluten. And no adverse effects so far, though I haven't eaten much of it yet.
> heading to Costa Rica at the end of the month, and I won't be back until June
> grueling winter quarter of writing, working, and being exhausted

As much as I know you all want to hear about my daily adventures, I know you'd probably rather look at tasty-looking food. So here you go:



Cremini mushrooms stuffed with creamed spinach, walnuts, herbs and an assortment of other wonderful things

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Individual spinach souffle

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Tuna melt on Whole Foods' gluten-free Prairie Bread with roasted red pepper tomato soup

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Linzer Torte Cupcakes from Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World

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Delicious grilled veggies: zucchini, mushrooms, bell pepper, fennel, onion, and a purple carrot

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Pacific Northwest clams and mussels on a bed of spaghetti, dressed with fire roasted tomatoes and olive oil

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Cheesecake! With raspberries, blueberries, orange and lemon zest in a buttery almond crust.

I'm way too tired to post anything else right now. It will have to do, at least for now. But I'll be back! With something new. And with any luck, tasty. Although you never know just what might come out of my kitchen next :-S

Learning Experience #3: Chocolate Crinkles

I've done it again. Except this time, instead of cyclooctane rings of overspread cookies a milimeter high, I had the opposite problem. The cookies didn't really budge...

I blame two things: too much flour, and too much xanthan gum.

The failed. spreading cookies that I've made in the past contained very little xanthan gum, and acted as though they didn't have enough flour (very thin and brittle, more sugary than soft). So I compensated. Overly so, evidently... now I have cakey, gauzey cookies with nearly no spread whatsoever. At least they taste good.

I did make one batch of drop cookies that came out PERFECTLY... some chocolate chip cookies a couple of months ago. They spread like charms, stopped at just the right spot, were soft and chewy and melty and tasted exactly like a chocolate chip cookie should taste. I didn't blog about it because I forgot to take pictures.

Maybe that's the key, here...

Anyway, these aren't all that bad. I will make them again with the aforementioned changes to see what might happen.


CHOCOLATE CRINKLES
from The Joy of Vegan Baking by Colleen Patrick Goudreau, adapted slightly

3 tsp egg replacer powder (I used my own blend of soy flour, potato starch, baking powder, and xanthan gum)
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp vanilla
1/4 cup hemp milk (or whatever - I can't have soy milk and rice milk is too thin)
1/4 cup Earth Balance margarine or other trans-fat-free nondairy butter
3 1/2 oz dark chocolate, chopped
1 1/2 cups gluten-free flour blend 1:2:3:3 tapioca:potato starch:sorghum:brown rice (I kind of... packed it in... don't do this)
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted

1. Whisk together egg replacer powder and water for about a minute, until thick and creamy. I'm guessing Ener-G powder gets thick and creamy, mine doesn't really. I'm so homemade it makes me ill. Toss in the sugar, vanilla, and hemp milk and beat another minute or so.

2. In a small saucepan over low heat, melt butter and chocolate completely. Remove immediately from stove and stir into the milk mixture.

3. In a large bowl, whisk flours with salt and baking powder. Add the wet ingredients and mix slowly until all is combined. You'll get kind of a loose batter at this point because everything is still melted, but it will start to firm up soon. Plop in the center of a large rectangle of waxed paper and wrap up. Refrigerate one hour to overnight.



4. When dough is chilled, preheat the oven to 325°F. Prepare baking sheets with parchment paper.



5. Sift confectioners' sugar into a small-medium bowl. Divide dough into 36 round, 1-inch balls. Round each one in your hands and toss it in the powdered sugar to coat, jiggling off the excess.



6. Line prepared dough balls on cookie sheets 2 inches apart. Bake for 18 minutes or until... you know, they're done. They won't look much different. Only a little cracked. Let cool on pans for 2 minutes, then remove to cool on racks.





PROS: chocolatey, crunchy exterior and chewy, soft interior, attractive
CONS: unspread, the *littlest* bit gummy

Two-Bean Enchiladas

My favorite part about cooking as a poor student is making wonderful, family-size dishes and freezing them in individual portions to eat later. It saves time. It saves money. It's homemade. I only really cook about once a week. I'd cook more if I had the time, and the money for ingredients, but right now I don't. So I eat a lot of beans. And rice.

Ahem. I wanted to make enchiladas. I don't know why, I just did. So I poked around and came up with a recipe that I thought would be good. I made it tonight. It made me want to ride a horse on the beach. Or whatever they do in Mexico.
Probably not that.


TWO-BEAN ENCHILADAS

Cooking oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 fresh jalapeños, seeded and chopped (do your mucous membranes a favor and wear gloves while handling the peppers)
3-4 cloves garlic, pressed
3 tbsp powdered ancho chili
1 tbsp cumin
1 tbsp oregano (crumbled, not ground)
2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
28 oz can fire-roasted diced tomatoes (get Muir Glen... they are GOOD)
1 1/2 cups cooked black beans, drained
1 cup cooked Anasazi or pinto beans, drained
1 cup fresh (or thawed frozen) corn kernels
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese, packed
Salt to taste
12 corn tortillas
2/3 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1/3 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When shimmering, add onions and jalapeños, and cook until onions begin to brown. This should take 3-4 minutes.

2. Add garlic, spices, sugar and salt, and continue to cook until fragrant, stirring constantly for about 1 minute. Don't burn it.



3. Stir in diced tomatoes and simmer about 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Cool to room temperature or a little above.



4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F. In a food processor or blender, process the mixture until smooth but chunky. Kind of like a fat baby. Transfer 1 cup sauce to a medium bowl, and toss with the beans, corn, cilantro, and 1 cup Jack cheese. Season bean mixture with salt and reserve the rest of the sauce.



5. Cover a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Drizzle about 2 tbsp oil into a pie pan or similar sized dish and briefly coat both sides of each tortilla. Use more oil if you need to. Spread them out on the baking sheet, overlapping as little as possible. Cover with another layer of foil and bake in the oven for 4 minutes or until pliable and soft.



6. Spread 3/4 cup sauce in the bottom of a 13x9-inch baking dish. Spoon 1/3 cup bean mixture into the center of a tortilla, roll up, and place in baking dish seam-side down. Repeat with remaining tortillas, lining them side-by-side. You may have to smoosh them up against one another, but don't worry. They're social. If you end up with a little extra filling, just stick it in that 13th tortilla that sometimes finds its way into the the 12-pack, and eat it. Right now.



7. Pour remaining sauce over enchiladas, spreading it to coat the tortillas completely. If you miss a spot, it will get all hard and impossibly chewy, which is a bummer. Combine cheddar and remaining Jack cheese, and sprinkle over the top of the enchiladas (either to cover, or down the center in a line).

8. Cover baking dish with foil, leaving one corner loose for steam escape. Bake in the lower half of the oven for 25 minutes or until cheese is melted and sauce is bubbling.



9. Garnish with cilantro and serve piping hot with sour cream, guacamole, and lime wedges. Because I'm cheap and poor, I had neither avocados to make guacamole, or limes. But believe me when I say it would have been killer.

PROS: warm and gooey, proteiny, filling and low cholesterol
CONS: are you kidding me?!

This dish could easily be made vegan by omitting the cheese and dressing it with some sort of vegan cream sauce. And avocados. Please, don't skimp on the avocados.

Buckwheat Bran Muffins

These muffins are like those sensuous big women with the low, smoky voices and a wink for you if you're lucky.

I have really developed a taste for buckwheat! I have buckwheat hot cereal for breakfast on my coffee days, I keep experimenting with buckwheat pancakes and waffles, and I've been making these muffins... they're quite tasty, really.

Originally I was going for a maple-flavored muffin, so I used maple syrup for sweetener. The maple didn't really stand out in the finished muffin, but I liked it anyway. I didn't want to bother adding something like maple extract that not many people have just lying around or are likely to ever use again. But I kept the maple syrup, because it adds a certain sultry va-va-voom. I also wanted a breakfast-type muffin (you know, fiber and protein and all that), hence the rice bran and buckwheat flour and brown rice flour, nuts and kasha and the like. Voila... it worked out.

These muffins, like most muffins, are pretty versatile. By that, I mean you can add things if you want. Nuts and chopped fruit (diced apple or pear might be good), seeds and such... go for it. Let me know how it is.


BUCKWHEAT BRAN MUFFINS

2/3 cup buckwheat flour
1/3 cup brown rice flour
1/4 cup potato starch
2 tbsp tapioca starch
2 tbsp soy flour
1/2 tsp xanthan gum
1 1/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ginger
3/4 tsp salt
Grated zest from 1 medium orange
6 tbsp unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3/4 cup maple syrup, room temperature
2 large eggs
2 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup sour cream
1 cup rice bran
3/4 cup kasha
3/4 cup sliced almonds, crushed lightly

1. Preheat oven to 375°F and prepare sixteen muffin cups by lining or greasing. In a medium bowl, sift together flours, starches, xanthan gum, baking powder, soda, cinnamon, and salt. Add zest and whisk to combine. Set aside.

2. Beat eggs until frothy in a large bowl. Drizzle in melted butter, mixing well to emulsify. Add maple syrup and vanilla and stir to combine.

3. In a smaller bowl or liquid measure, whisk the buttermilk and sour cream together until no longer lumpy. Add to the bowl with the maple syrup and mix well.

4. Add flour mixture, folding gently until barely mixed but still lumpy. Fold in rice bran, kasha, and almonds until no streaks of flour remain and ingredients are moistened, but do not overmix.



5. Fill cups 3/4 full with batter, and smooth the tops with a spatula as best you can. Taste some.



6. Bake on the lower-middle rack for 23-25 minutes, or until they turn deliciously brown around the edges and just begin to pull away from the sides of the pan (if you're using liners, just use the toothpick method). Cool in pan 5 minutes, then remove to eat warm or cool or whatever. Toast them later, whatever.





PROS: warm and husky, exotically spiced yet delicate earthy flavor, delicious crunchy bits, not overly sweet
CONS: a little dense (is that a con?), flavor is mild

Pasta e Fagioli

You know, I get a certain satisfaction out of trying something new. Food-wise, anyway. For the longest time I couldn't really stand to eat pasta without some kind of tomatoes or tomato sauce... but I'm expanding my horizons. Slowly. I still can't eat it with just plain olive oil. Too... pasty.

But I like pasta, and I like beans, so I thought I'd try this one out. Apparently it's an Italian classic... but not being Italian, or a foodie, I wouldn't know. Hits the spot on an icy January evening, though.

I got this recipe from the Joy of Cooking - 75th Anniversary Edition, but I made a few modifications to suit my diet. This is the version I made.


PASTA E FAGIOLI

1/2 lb dry cannellini beans
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
(2 tbsp minced parsley - didn't have this, but it would have been awfully pretty)
3 garlic cloves, pressed
2 cups vegetable broth or stock, or more as needed
1 cup gluten-free quinoa-corn elbow macaroni
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, or more as needed

1. Rinse beans and pick over for shriveled or broken beans and little pebbles. My dad always used to bite into really hard things in his food at dinnertime and then frown and try to figure out what it was. I wonder if they were pebbles.

2. Cover with an inch of water and let soak for up to 8 hours. It's supposed to improve digestibility for those with bean-sensitive guts. My gut is quite accustomed to beans and it makes no difference, so I just soaked them for three hours to see what would happen. They just got wrinkly.



3. Discard soaking water and cover again with an inch of water. Bring to a full boil, then reduce heat to medium-low or low, partially cover, and let simmer for an hour and a half. Test them after about 70 minutes for doneness (ie: you can mash them easily and they're not crunchy). Drain and let cool.



4. Heat oil in a stockpot over medium or medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add onion, carrot, celery, and parsley (if you're using it). I wish I had parsley :-(

5. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until onion is golden-brown. Well. My onion never turned golden brown, even after 15 minutes. So when it started to get soft I just proceeded. Sigh.



6. Add garlic and cook for one more minute. Stir and add beans, mashing lightly and stirring to incorporate. It should look all soft and mashy. Yum.



7. After about a minute, pour in the broth and increase heat to high. Bring just to a simmer, then turn heat to medium-low. Partially cover, and let cook for five minutes.

8. Add macaroni and salt to taste, and stir lightly to incorporate. Simmer for an additional 15 minutes, or until the macaroni is al dente (cooked through, but gives some resistance to the teeth). Add about a cup more broth, or however much you need to get the consistency you want.

9. Lighly stir in black pepper and cheese, and serve with a little more cheese on top. Oh, it would look so much prettier with parsley. But you know what? It tasted good anyway.



PROS: Warm, chunky, thick, healthy, filling
CONS: very yellow... and a little bland

I apologize for not updating very often. I have a very busy schedule. I'm going to try to get in at least one blog per week though, at least for the quarter. I've penciled it in :-)

Of course, I am not sure if anybody is reading this because nobody comments. Fortunately, my plight is an easy one for you to remedy. So go ahead... make my day.

Spotlight: Mighty-O Donuts

OK, so I work here.



But that doesn't stop me from admiring our beautiful selection of trans-fat-free, organic morsels of deliciousness. Probably because, you know. I make them.

Come in on a Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday morning and I'll be happy to serve you up a donut and some coffee! We serve organic Stumptown coffee in both espresso and drip, we offer rice, soy, or cow milk and soy whipped cream.



Mighty-O specializes in cake donuts - from your basic glazed or plain donut to the "Don King" (glazed chocolate cake with coconut) or "Nutty French Toast" (spice cake with maple glaze and chopped peanuts). On most days, if you come in early, you can get a maple bar or raised donut. If you're lucky, we'll have jelly-filled or creme-filled...



They're vegan, but don't let that keep you from trying one.You can buy them at Whole Foods, PCC, Tully's, or a few other cafes and coffeehouses in the Seattle area. But the best place to find them is right in our store, first thing in the morning. They're made fresh every day!



So come visit us by Greenlake, at 56th and Keystone. Like, 5 minutes from the zoo. 2 minutes from the lake. Inches from bliss...

You can park on the street, or in the little garage behind the store. We're kittycornered from Meridian Market and across the street from Zoka, and right next to Tangletown.

Buckwheat-Corn Pancakes, part II

I've been working on this recipe for the past few months and I'm pretty happy with it so far. Better than the first version, certainly. The only catch is that I don't ever seem to have buttermilk on hand when I'm making it, so I've been using various combination of sour cream, milk, and/or lemon juice instead. I think buttermilk would be better. But I don't know until someone tries it and tells me.

These substantial, down-on-the-farm pancakes develop a sweet, crispy exterior while maintaining a moist and fluffy interior. The molasses adds a layer of earthy sweetness that is well-balanced by the more delicate flavor of honey.


BUCKWHEAT-CORN PANCAKES (part II)

2/3 cup buckwheat flour
1/4 cup corn flour
2 tbsp cornmeal
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 large egg, separated
1 cup buttermilk
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp honey
1 tbsp full-flavored molasses (not blackstrap)
1/2 cup blueberries, fresh corn kernels, or other topping/filling of your choice

1. Whisk or sift together the dry ingredients (flours, leavening and salt) in a large bowl. It's helpful to sift if you have clumpy baking powder, because then, you know... it gets distributed and all. Just a thought.

2. Whisk egg white with buttermilk in a 2-cup liquid measure and bring to room temperature by partially submerging in a bowl of warm water and stirring periodically. If you have cold ingredients, it will coagulate the melted butter, which sucks a lot. You don't want clumps of butter here. It's not a pie crust, you know.

3. Reserve yolk in a small bowl while melting butter in a small saucepan or double boiler. Add honey as butter is nearly melted. Slowly drizzle melted butter and honey over the yolk, whisking constantly to avoid cooking the yolk. Stir in the molasses.

4. Add yolk mixture to buttermilk and whisk to combine well. Pour into large bowl with dry ingredients, and whisk until most of the flour is moistened but it's still a little lumpy. If you over-mix it, the bubbles created by the baking soda and powder will collapse and die like the fragile little creatures they are. Then you'll get really flat, dense pancakes. So be gentle.

5. Let batter rest for a few minutes while you preheat a heavy skillet over medium heat. I love cast iron for pancakes, it creates an unbeatable crust. Stainless doesn't really cut it, and I never recommend cooking in a nonstick pan, but that's just me. Use what you have.

6. Test the heat of your skillet by adding a pat of butter. If it foams but does not readily brown, the skillet is the proper temperature. If it browns quickly, it's too hot. If it slowly melts, it's not hot enough. Adjust! When it's just right, ladle or scrape some batter (it will be nice and thiiiick) onto the hot, buttered skillet. Spread it out some, or you'll get a lump rather than a pancake. Sprinkle your blueberries or corn on top. Whatever you want, really.



7. After the edges start to set and large bubbles appear in the middle of the batter, it's ready for flipping. This is fun. Flip it now. But try not to mess it up. Because half-cooked pancakes are very sensitive to this sort of activity and are prone to folding up on themselves, adhering to the sloped sides of your skillet (rather than the more desirable flat surface), or missing the pan altogether. This is not good.

8. Cook until bottom is crispy and brown, and then set aside on a rack to cool or keep warm in a 200°F oven while you cook the other pancakes. Add butter to the skillet before cooking each pancake, or they'll stick and won't get as crusty and beautiful. Don't stack them until they're ready to eat, or they'll get all soggy. Ew. Serve with butter, maple syrup, extra blueberries, or whatever you have that you think goes well with buckwheat pancakes.





PROS: sooo fluffy and delicious. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Hearty yet light.
CONS: batter is so thick it can be difficult to work with. I don't really care, though.

PS: I got a new camera for Christmas! Woohoo! This is my first blog using my new Sony Cybershot DSC-W80. YAY!